The real reason behind the violent Turkish protests

If you are fortunate enough to have many Turkish friends, you’ll know how fiercely proud they are of their country. And why not? It is a spectacular place that has connected East and West throughout history. But theirs isn’t a jingoistic zeal for ancient culture. Modern Turks are deeply connected to the founding principle of the modern Turkish state: secularism. When talking to young Turkish people, you very quickly realise how profoundly they love the father of their nation, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, who reformed the Turkish state in the 1920s. They feel the current government is moving further and further away from secular democracy and closer towards divisive, religious politics. What started off as a peaceful protest against the building of a shopping mall in place of a park has turned into nationwide outrage over a formerly liberal state becoming increasing nationalist.

The sense you get talking to protesters is that this is not an ‘Arab Spring’ or a ‘London Riot’. There is no revolutionary political party leading the uprising and TVs aren’t being pulled out of shop windows (yet). 5 days ago, 50 people camped at Gezi park in middle of Istanbul – angry that it would be demolished for yet another shopping mall. Police turned up unannounced – most people say at around 5am – with tear gas and water cannons cleared the peaceful protesters before setting fire to their tents. What followed was a local media blackout and a social media contagion that lead to a popular backlash. Many people who were previously indifferent, took to the streets across Turkey’s cities: Istanbul, Ankara, Izmir, Antalya, Adana, Denizli, Isparta and Bursa. The apolitical were incensed by the police’s excessive force and even rival football fans put aside their differences (anyone who knows Turkish football fans, knows this only happens when the national team plays!).

There is wide spread anger against the policies of prime minister, Recep Tayyip Erdogan and his AKP party – a party that many feel is more in ‘power’ than it is in ‘office’. The incident at the Park was the straw that broke the camel’s back. Draconian new laws such as an alcohol ban between 10 pm- 6 am, have not gone down well with a people used to freedom – and great nightlife! Many moderate Muslims themselves fear a growing conservative Islamic wave and direct their anger towards a leader whose style has grown more and more autocratic. Women in particular feel their liberites are being impeached: the state run Turkish Airlines was widely criticized for curtailing its air-hostesses attire, going so far as to tone down the colour of their lip-stick! Locals recount a marked increase in the number of head-scarves being worn by female bureaucrats. This is a country famous of belly-dancing! Websites have been pulled down, protests have been strong-handedly suppressed and tensions with ethnic Kurds (who make up 20% of the population) to the south have been reignited. What seems to have caused the greatest outrage is the country’s media taking little or no notice of the movement.

Turkey has seen impressive economic development since the AKP came to power in 2002. GDP growth averaged 6.8% over the past three years, inflation has been reeled in and FDI is booming but Erdogan is in danger of wiping out all that good work. The Turkish stock market, the Borsa Istanbul National 100, fell 10.5% yesterday. The threat of civil and/or sectarian violence is far greater than economic spooks. Two people have been killed and scores injured – now the common fear is that supporters of his party will be called to streets too.

Much like travelers and traders who have crossed the Bosphorus strait in Istanbul, the country itself is at an interesting cross-road. We will have to seen if a political movement emerges from the social movement, but it will probably be difficult: AKP is only the 2nd party to win three consecutive general elections. While their share of votes increased to 49.9% in 2011 (up from 34.28% in 2002; 46.58% in 2007), their seats in parliament have fallen marginally but steadily 363 in 2002, to 341 in 2007, and 326 in 2011.

End the archaic bans, engage in real democracy – a two way dialogue between citizen and state – and above all follow secular principals: that is the message emanating from the streets of Istanbul. The sentiment that seems most widespread is one that wants a change in governance, rather than a change in government.