Japan rejigs definition to protect its 'world-famous' whisky from foreign-made imposters

Japanese whisky, renowned worldwide for its quality and often hefty price tags, is set to undergo a more stringent definition starting Monday, as the industry aims to crack down on foreign-made imitations.

In recent years, the global demand for Japan’s acclaimed whiskies has surged, leading to soaring prices, particularly for rare aged varieties.

However, alongside this popularity has emerged concern and confusion among both producers and consumers, as beverages produced elsewhere, sometimes not meeting whisky standards, are marketed as “Japanese whisky.”

In response, the Japan Spirits and Liqueurs Makers Association has introduced a new definition for the spirit, which officially takes effect on Monday following a three-year transition period.

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Under the new guidelines, products can only be labeled as Japanese whisky if they adhere to specific criteria, including the use of water sourced from Japan and aging whisky barrels in Japan for a minimum of three years, among other regulations.

While non-compliance will not result in penalties, manufacturers have welcomed the industry’s move, seeing it as a means to protect the global reputation of Japanese whisky.

“We believe this initiative will enhance the standing of Japanese whisky by facilitating clearer differentiation from other products, thus benefiting our international clientele,” stated major producer Suntory in a statement to AFP.

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Experts say Japan has around 100 distilleries, whose whisky has commanded increasing global respect since the early 2000s.

Annual exports of Japanese whisky were worth 56 billion yen ($370 million) in 2022 – 14 times more than a decade earlier. In 2023, this figure eased to 50 billion yen.

Brands such as Nikka Whisky’s Yoichi 10 and Yamazaki 12 have scooped prestigious international awards, and distillers now plan production decades in advance to cope with demand.

Suntory’s Hibiki 17 played a starring role in the hit 2003 movie “Lost in Translation”, in which the character played by Bill Murray promoted the drink with the line: “For relaxing times, make it Suntory time.”

With inputs from AFP