Time for Archaeological Survey of India to take a proactive approach to heritage conservation

A few days ago, a comment by Chief Justice of India BR Gavai sparked a furore. The comment pertained to an ancient Vishnu idol in Khajuraho whose head has been broken off, most likely by a mediaeval iconoclast. The Chief Justice refused a petition seeking to reconstruct the head of the idol, mentioning that this was part of a site controlled by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI).

However, beyond this idol and the subsequent controversy, there is ample ground to ask some serious questions of the ASI. And the occasion of World Tourism Day, which was observed Saturday, September 27, is perhaps the most appropriate time to pose those questions. When it comes to heritage, especially Hindu and Buddhist religious sites, the ASI seems to have a strange belief in ‘as is, where is’.

This essentially means an attempt to preserve a decaying site in that state of decay. But in a hot climate like that of India, where climate change is increasingly showing its presence, and for structures which have suffered historic damage, one is forced to wonder if ‘as is, where is’ is a sensible conservation strategy, or if it is mere bureaucratic status-quoist behaviour at work?

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There are two key issues that come up herein:

• Built architecture dating back centuries or more is already in a state of neglect and decline. To imagine that this decline can be arrested and kept in that state is delusional.

• The enormous opportunity to drive tourism that restored heritage sites would offer.

ASI officials often balk at the thought of restoring ruined sites, to the point where they are almost reconstructed. The greatest example of such reconstruction is the Borobudur stupa. Located on the island of Java, Indonesia, it is in the ‘Ring of Fire’ zone of volcanic and tectonic activity. By the 1950s, this ancient monument was in ruins.

Between 1975 and 1982, Borobudur was entirely rebuilt using the fallen material. Spectacular results followed. In 1991, came Unesco World Heritage status. In 2024, it was visited by 1.3 million tourists, which included over 2 lakh foreign visitors. With an entry fee equivalent to $25 per adult, that is a staggering 5 million dollars from foreign tourists alone. Not to mention domestic visitors and the much larger ecosystem of hotels, restaurants, retail outlets and local travel to facilitate tourism.

We present a set of such sites that currently lie in a state of ruin or semi-conservation but would benefit immensely from full-scale restoration. These sites are all ‘protected’ officially but are sliding into decay.

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Kesariya Stupa, East Champaran, Bihar: Older than Borobudur and once the tallest stupa in the world, the Kesariya is a partly excavated site with a direct linkage to the life of the Buddha himself. It was here that he told his Licchavi disciples of his impending nirvana and asked them to return to Vaishali, giving them his alms bowl as a token of remembrance. In its semi-collapsed state, entry to the stupa complex is free of cost – a missed opportunity. Imagine this site reconstructed and made part of a larger Buddhist circuit touching Bodh Gaya, Nalanda, Vaishali, Kushinagar, Sarnath, etc.

Martand Sun Temple, Anantnag, Kashmir: In a land that has witnessed ethnic cleansing of Hindus in multiple waves over centuries, the massive but entirely ruined Sun Temple at Martand reminds visitors of the past. Think of the psychological impact of rebuilding this site on a populace that is currently forgetting that Kashmir was once largely Hindu-Buddhist. Not to mention that this would create an economic magnet for the region and a narrative that moves away from Islamic separatist theories.

Deogarh, Lalitpur, Uttar Pradesh: Lying in the economically backward region of Bundelkhand, the site is an eclectic mix of varied eras. The most significant monument is the Gupta-period Dashavatara Temple, containing beautiful, sculpted panels. On a nearby hill is a group of ancient Jain temples, still in worship. Carved along cliffs overlooking a river are many more icons and inscriptions. A few kilometres away, at Dudhai, is a thousand-year-old Narasimha icon that is more than forty feet high and carved on a hill wall. The fine lines of sculpture on the temples are beginning to fade. Do the ASI realise that without a full restoration, they will not survive?

Sirpur, Mahasamund, Chhattisgarh: While some may be surprised at seeing this much-acclaimed and protected site on the list, the focus of visitors is largely on the iconic Laxmana Temple. What is missed is that vastness of the place, once the capital of the Panduvanshi dynasty. It is a rare site that encompasses Hindu, Buddhist and Jain remains dated between the 5th and 12th centuries.

Numerous structures such as the Teevardev Temple, Surang Tila, Balesvara Mahadev Temple complex, Shiva and Harihara temples and a Buddhist vihara lie in ruins. Think of the cumulative effect of a rebuilt historic city where the state’s culture and cuisine are also showcased. And with a wildlife sanctuary thrown in at nearby Barnawarapara, Sirpur could attract visitors in hordes.

Stepwells of Ahmedabad, Gujarat: In an era where water conservation and sustainable development are increasingly spoken of, and in a city which has itself received World Heritage Status, one aspect is forgotten. The mediaeval city of Ahmedabad was serviced by numerous stepwells. Many have survived, albeit with their aquifers filled in, destroying their original purpose. Several have become temples, but uncontrolled modification threatens their structural integrity. Others are neglected. Imagine the effect if spaces such as the Dada Harir Vav, Ashapura ni Vav, Gandharva ni Vav, Sindwai Mata ni Vav and Amritavarshini ni Vav were to be revived as centres for art and culture.

Restoration of these sites, even reconstructing them, may offend the sensibilities of conservative heritage professionals, but it is time for an attitude change. The ASI and state archaeological bodies are all short of funds. Focused restoration driven by public-private partnerships, together with encouraging locals to prepare infrastructure to support tourism, would give them an economic stake in the upkeep of heritage. Time to rebuild our own Borobudurs!

The author is a heritage explorer with a penchant for seeking obscure sites. A brand consultant by profession, he tweets @HiddenHeritage. Views expressed in the above piece are personal and solely those of the author. They do not necessarily reflect Firstpost’s views.