Nado Poizokhang: Bhutan's secret to peace, wellness and blissful relaxation

The burning of incense and Poe is a tradition of Himalayan Buddhists, harking back to Indian rituals of offering aroma (gandhapuja) and the ancient Bon smoke offering. Not only do these fragrances provide mental peace, but they also symbolize the purity and perfection of the five elements of sensual pleasure. In Bhutan, this ritual is personified in the form of the female goddess Dugpoema and is an essential part of any religious ceremony, from small village shanties to grand state temples. As I entered Nado Poizokhang, the oldest incense-making workshop in Bhutan, at the beginning of March, I was warmly welcomed by 79-year-old Ap Nado (Ap meaning elderly in Bhutanese). This renowned incense factory in Thimphu has been in business since antiquity, and its products ranging from incense sticks to powders, are sought after by households, monasteries, and even the royal palace. “As I assemble each incense stick, I’m constantly reminded that a tranquil state of mind is the cornerstone of true bliss. And by sharing these sticks with the world, I’m spreading happiness - one whiff at a time,” proudly exclaimed Nado. Pink mattresses adorned with Bhutanese fabrics were placed around the room, and a small wooden table sat in front of him, with a sweet-smelling incense scenting the air. Attired in an orange Gho, fastened by a hand-crafted Kera, Nado, donned a Tego jacket with its long cuffs folded back, adding a dignified touch. Adjacent to him hung a painting of the Vajra master Padmasambhava and opposite him, a screen print of a Bhutanese goddess. I leaned in with curiosity in my eye, ready to listen to his explanation of the two paintings. With a dramatic wave of his arm to the painting of Padmasambhava, he began, “Tibetan Buddhism finds its roots in the teachings of Padmasambhava, who endowed his followers an oral lineage (kama) and a lineage of the hidden treasure texts (terma). Even today his spirit is evoked during guru yoga practices in the Nyingma school. It’s no surprise that his teachings hold such a prominent place in Buddhist spirituality.” He paused, gesturing to the other painting. “And here we have the Buddhist goddess Dugpoema of the fragrant art of incense.” According to Nado, the great Lord Buddha created incense and blessed the world with it through devoted people like Dugpoema. He is proud to be a part of their fellowship, humbly taking part in the holy mission of making this divine incense spread its sweet aroma around the world. He then opened the door to reveal a storeroom full of fragrant, dried herbs and explained that their incomparable quality was due to the excellent botanicals used in its ingredients. “You can experience total relaxation with our 100 per cent  organic incense. Our signature spikenard scent is derived from delicate Jatamansi flowers, combined with juniper boughs to create an aroma that will soothe your soul. There’s no need to worry about chemical-laden incense when you can enjoy the finest organic incense products. We take our commitment to excellence very seriously - and it shows in every single product we craft.” For more than half a century, Nado has been perfecting his craft of creating incense masterpieces, following the ancient Buddhist scriptures. His creations are made with utmost care and attention to detail, using only the best and most organic selection of flowers, bark, woods, leaves, fruits, and roots. Each incense is 100% toxin-free and promises an exceptionally pure, fragrant scent. “We’ve got a longstanding relationship with these recipes - some of which are over 700 years old. In the majestic Himalayas, in the highest of high places, yak herders and families gather the ingredients that make up our blends. We also collaborate with the community-based sustainable management of medicinal plants, a project devoted to teaching collectors how to gather and cultivate natural products sustainably,” proclaims Nod. He adds, “Burning incense is a sacred part of Bhutanese culture, and it’s a daily custom to begin and end each day with. To create the most exquisite aroma, I wait for the perfect time - just after Thrue-Bab when the monsoon ends and the sun’s warmth brings life to the land. Then, I craft incense sticks and powder with their ancient powers. In Bhutan, incense is not only for special occasions - it’s an essential part of our culture that has been around for centuries. Even today, we use incense in both powder and stick forms, just as our ancestors did. We take pride in this meaningful practice and in keeping its tradition alive.” Nado enthused that his powdered incense is far from ordinary, which is often seared on hot embers in temples, homes, and monasteries. Not only is it presented to the gods, but it also has many other purposes: fumigating sacred rooms and holy artefacts, pacifying malicious spirits, and clearing away negative energy. Furthermore, the delicate scent of fragrant smoke can be a soothing remedy for the soul, creating a sense of peace and a positive shift in mood. But, he excitedly added, his incense recipe can do even more; it can free blocked energy, and provide relief from various ailments. Nado’s incense formula has been a closely-guarded family secret ever since he and his daughter Lamdon stumbled upon it in the Mindrolling Tibetan Buddhist Monastery in India - a recipe passed down for over three centuries. He implies, “I’ve had to make a few changes to the original recipe - the enormous amount of saffron it used to demand, would make it incredibly expensive. So I’ve added a mixture from the Drukpa Kagyu tradition of Buddhism to make it even more aromatic and enhance its healing powers. The normal incense I use is made with thirty ingredients, but for special religious ceremonies, it requires 108 - a number considered to be really auspicious among Buddhists. The incense with 108 ingredients is only made on special days, according to the Buddhist astrological calendar.” Nado then takes me on a tour of the milling room of the workshop, where the staff are hard at work creating the mysterious blend of bark, spices, woodchips, flowers, and leaves, without knowing the exact proportions. As he cheekily reveals, “They have no idea about the secret ingredient I add at the end.” He divulges that the powder intended to be burned outright is mixed with powerful herbal components before being packaged up, while the powder for sticks is concocted with water, honey, and a natural purple dye to form a slick dough that sits and matures in a large vat for up to a week, allowing for optimal fermentation. Nado slowly opened the lid, and an enchanting floral aroma wafted out. He then ushered me to the production room, where Gyenzang and her team of twelve female workers were hard at work. Gyenzang was feeding handfuls of the fermented dough into the hopper of a remarkable machine. In a flash, the clay-like paste was magically transformed into spools of soft incense. Yeshey then gave it the finishing touch, rolling the incense out flat along the edge of a wooden block. “They go off to the attic to be air-dried, trimmed and tied into bundles ready for market. We make nearly 20,000 incense sticks and 355kg of powder every month, and we even export our products to the international market,” said Nado, who has been devoted to his Buddhist practices for over fifty years and sees his incense business as a spiritual journey. His voice was full of emotion as he spoke: “This is my calling, and it brings me such joy to know that my incense brings contentment to so many.” The factory produces the most exquisite incense varieties, like Bamboo A, White Morning and Red Evening, each containing tremendous potential energy. You can make your life a little more fragrant with these delectable gems without having to break the bank - the price starts from just Ngultrum 65 ($1 or INR 65) and goes up Ngultrum 1800. With more than a decade of writing experience and a passion for exploring the world, the author is a travel journalist with a knack for captivating storytelling. Views are personal.   Read all the  Latest News ,  Trending News ,  Cricket News ,  Bollywood News , India News  and  Entertainment News  here. Follow us on  Facebook,  Twitter and  Instagram.