I have been to the Lepakshi temple complex more times than I can remember, including this summer. One, because I find this temple architecturally very impressive. Second, because I find that it exudes a deeply spiritual aura. After the temple found a place on the tentative UNESCO World Heritage Sites list in 2022 with UNESCO calling it a masterpiece of creative effort, I found another reason to visit. Lepakshi temple has also been designated a monument of national importance by the Archaeological Survey of India. The temple located in the eponymous village, in Sri Sathya Sai District, Andhra Pradesh, is dedicated to Sri Veerabhadra Swami, the fiery avatar of Lord Shiva and also has shrines to other deities like Papanasheshwara, Raghunatha, Bhadrakali, etc., and large, outdoor Ganesha and Shivalinga. So, it is called the Veerabhadra temple though it is widely and popularly known as Lepakshi temple. Historians say it was built over three time-periods ranging from 1100 A.D. to 1800 A.D. The middle phase between 1350 to 1600 A.D. is when the Vijayanagara kings added some of its most outstanding elements. Many of the inscriptions on the walls are attributed to the reign of Achyutaraya Maharaya (16th century A.D.). UNESCO sums up the historical value saying that “the temple preserves important examples of Vijayanagara sculptures and paintings, and is a unique example of continuity of traditions, creative ideas and knowledge of Chalukyas, Hoyasalas, and Kakatiyas combined with local customs.” The entire temple is built in trikuta style and sits on a low hill, shaped like a tortoise, called Kurmasaila (kurma means tortoise, and saila means hill). A prominent feature (a short distance from the main temple) is a magnificent seated Nandi, a colossal monolithic structure in granite, complete with ornaments, garlands and bells. It is considered to be one of the largest of its kind in India. Towering above the landscape, it is a big favourite with visitors who want to take back a photo-souvenir so it is always crowded around this vehicle of Shiva. The Nandi faces another enormous structure, though at a distance: the Nagashivalinga. This is a basaltic Shivalinga made from a huge boulder, and canopied by a large, monolithic sculpture of a seven-hooded Naga (snake) as if protecting it. [caption id=“attachment_13380452” align=“alignnone” width=“428”] Image: Aruna Chandaraju[/caption] Rivalling this in size–and popularity for photo-ops too–is a massive Ganesha carved on one side of a boulder. This Ganesha, which you see just after the Nagashivalinga has a rock canopy supported by pillars. [caption id=“attachment_13380472” align=“alignnone” width=“429”]
Image: Aruna Chandaraju[/caption] The scale and proportions of all three prominent elements: Shiva’s mount, Nandi; the Ganesha; and Nagashivalinga all testify to the outstanding skills of the architects and craftsmen. The temple name is attributed to two legends. The most popular one is associated with the Ramayana. When Sita was being abducted by Ravana, the noble-eagle Jatayu tried to come to her rescue but was wounded and felled by the demon-king, in this very village. Lord Rama, following in search of Sita, arrived there, saw Jatayu and said, lovingly: “Le Pakshi”, meaning, in Telugu, “Rise, O Bird.” There is also a gigantic stone footprint in the temple which devotees believe to be that of Sita. Another theory breaks down the word Lepakshi into Lepa and Akshi meaning painted eye. In Indian temples, history, local lore, legends and myths all merge to form several narratives for each structure. The red blotches on the western-side wall have a rather gory and sad story behind them. The temple is said to have been built by the brothers Virupanna and Veeranna (16th century), ministers/governors of the Vijayanagara king Achyutaraya. It was alleged later that Virupanna secretly used funds from the royal treasury, nearly emptying it. When the king’s successor learnt of this, Virupanna was terrified. He did not want to face the new king’s ire and the fate of being summoned and blinded as punishment. So, to forestall that, he blinded himself at Lepakshi, offering his two eyes to his lord, the presiding deity Sri Veerabhadra, believing that was a more noble way out. The red blotches are said to be the blood from his eyes. Legend has it that Sage Agastya was also associated with the temple. Except for the Ganesha and the Nagashivalinga, almost every exposed surface of the temple is covered with frescoes or carvings. All of them are testimony to the artistic brilliance of the craftsmen. In fact, a major draw of the Lepakshi temple complex is the superb paintings on ceilings and walls of mandapas. The technique employed is known as Fresco-secco or painting in lime-medium on plaster. All the frescoes and sculptures represent different characters and scenes from the Puranas, Ramayana and Mahabharata. The fresco paintings include that of Shiva-Parvati Kalyanam, Kiratarjuneeyam, a much-liked Krishna who seems to look back directly at you from whichever direction you view him, etc. UNESCO holds that the temple is valuable also because it “bears witness to the only surviving fresco paintings of the mid-Vijayanagara period”. The pillars of the natya-mandapam are also elaborately carved with figures of gods, goddesses, dancers and musicians. [caption id=“attachment_13380462” align=“alignnone” width=“387”]
Image: Aruna Chandaraju[/caption] Of course, the big attraction with many lay visitors is the so-called Hanging Pillar, a pillar which does not touch the ground! Actually, to the naked eye, the gap between the base of the pillar and floor is almost imperceptible. Guides love to impress their groups by passing a thin-cloth or sheet of paper from one end of the bottom of the pillar to another and watch the onlookers’ surprise and gasps of awe! Long ago, in an unsuccessful effort to uncover the mystery, the British are said to have tampered with and even slightly dislodged this and nearby pillars. After you visit the Veerabhadra shrine, you can also see the shrines of Papanasheshwara, Raghunatha, Bhadrakali, Parvathi, etc., and the images of Brahma and Vishnu on pillars. Interestingly, there is a superb image of Durga on an inside-facing pillar before which a large mirror is placed for easy darshan by devotees, and where we and other visitors received kumkum and flowers. Moving to the left from the main shrine, you can descend a few steps and turn right to see the awe-inspiring Nagashivalinga. Walking ahead, you will see the other monolith: Ganesha after which you arrive at the open-air mandapam with multiple pillars all on a large, raised platform. Once you descend this platform, you can go and see Sita’s footprint. The temple not only has several layers of history given how it was built over three time periods but is also built over several levels. You can first visit the Nandi which is on ground-level. Walking down the road you will arrive at the main temple, which–being built on a hill–is reached by a short flight of steps. Once you enter, there are several more, narrow steps to climb. Throughout the visit, you will find yourself ascending and descending steps to view the different attractions like sanctum-sanctorum, the Nagashivalinga, mahamandapam, natya-mandapam and so on, until you return to the entrance from where you can exit the temple. The temple complex is mercifully free of graffitti, very well-maintained and there is an Andhra Pradesh Government resort, Haritha Hotel, located beside the Nandi which offers good-quality accommodation and a walk-in restaurant. Another draw of Lepakshi is the presence of nearby attractions all within an hour to two-and-half-hours driving distance. There is the Penukonda Fort, associated with the Vijayanagara kings. Check out Gutibayalu which has a gigantic banyan-tree, Thimmamma Marrimanu, with branches spread over several acres (considered one of India’s biggest banyan trees). On the way to this tree, you can visit the famous Kadiri Lakshmi Narasimhaswamy temple. Closeby is the Puttaparthi and Prashanti Nilayam pilgrim-centre where you can visit the ashram of the spiritual leader and philanthropist Sri Sathya Sai Baba or if you want to skip the ashram, you can check out the attached multi-religion spiritual museum and flat-domed planetarium. For birdwatching, you can visit Veerapuram where migratory birds arrive seasonally. If your travel is incomplete without shopping, head to Dharmavaram, a large and bustling silk-weaving town where you will find silk sarees, dress materials, etc., in vibrant hues and myriad designs. You can also visit Hindupur and pick up Mudireddipalli sarees. Take time to savour the region’s culinary specialities like Chepala Pulusu, Ragi Mudda, Jonna Rotti, Naatu Kodi curry, etc. How to reach: Lepakshi is in Sri Sathya Sai District, Andhra Pradesh. The nearest railway station is Hindupur. Other nearby rail stations are Prashanti Nilayam and Dharmavaram. The nearest airport is Bengaluru, around 110 km away. From Bengaluru, take NH 7 (new number NH 44). The writer is a journalist, photographer, translator and author of Forgotten Composers. Views expressed in the above piece are personal and solely that of the author. They do not necessarily reflect Firstpost’s views. Read all the
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The temple not only has several layers of history given how it was built over three time periods, but it is also built over several levels, which is a major cause of tourist attraction
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