During Sotheby’s annual January
Royal and Noble
collection sale, US reality TV star Kim Kardashian bought the
diamond and amethyst Attallah Cross necklace
, previously worn by Diana, Princess of Wales. The pendant, which weighs 5.25 carats, was sold for $197,453 (Rs 1.61 crore) – almost
double the pre-auction estimate
. The diamond and sapphire encrusted pendant was originally designed in the 1920s by the court jeweller, Garrard, and later became part of the
collection of Naim Attallah
, a Palestinian-British businessman and writer. Attallah was the former chief executive of brands at Asprey and Garrard and a friend of Diana. The necklace’s legacy and association with Diana, have secured its place in fashion’s rich history. That it has become a part of Kardashian’s collection is a reminder of the power of celebrity in driving economic value. How an association with the more transient celebrity of the social media age will impact the longevity of fashion memorabilia is less certain. Celebrity sells The Attallah cross is an addition to Kim Kardashian’s growing collection of celebrity memorabilia – items representative of fashion and popular culture’s diverse history. Kardashian has previously bought a jacket worn by
Michael Jackson for her daughter North
and one of only two
Alexander McQueen oyster dresses
in existence, which she altered in order to wear it to the 2020 Vanity Fair Oscars party. The garment was described by Andrew Bolton, curator of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, as
“arguably the most important dress of the 21st century”
. Kardashian also famously wore
Marilyn Monroe’s JFK birthday dress
to the Met Gala in 2022. The move caused controversy over both the
dramatic weight loss
she underwent to fit into the dress and the alleged
subsequent damage
to the garment. [caption id=“attachment_12098692” align=“alignnone” width=“640”] Kim Kardashian and comedian Pete Davidson at the 2022 Met Gala in New York. The reality star turned heads when she walked the red carpet in Marilyn Monroe’s JFK birthday dress. File image/AFP[/caption] Mass media representation has
fuelled society’s fascination with celebrity
. When a
famous person dies, this can intensify
, which may explain Kardashian’s drive to own these iconic items. The trade in celebrity-owned fashion items isn’t limited to extraordinary pieces like the Attallah cross. In 2013, a false nail worn by
Lady Gaga
was sold for $12,000 (Rs 9.82 lakh). More recently, in 2022, a battered pair of Birkenstock sandals which had been worn by
Steve Jobs
when he first started Apple were sold to an anonymous bidder for $218,750 (Rs 1.79 crore). Association with specific celebrities has invested these objects with a value that is both economic and cultural. Kardashian has not just purchased Diana’s physical necklace – she has bought its emotive story. Why fashion objects matter Academics working in the discipline of
material culture
(which comes from the field of anthropology) focus their research on understanding society through people’s relationships with objects. This includes examining what makes people buy the things they do and how those objects bring meaning to their lives. Recognising that fashion objects have deeper meanings both individually and culturally explains why celebrity-owned objects take on a combined personal, cultural and economic value. Why is Kim Kardashian buying celebrity memorabilia? Kardashian is a celebrity of the social media age. Her
adoption of trends
and
endorsement of fast fashion brands
makes her
relatable to the masses
. And she has also shared her values, represented through the causes that are important to her including
criminal justice reform, gun safety and cancer causes
on both her social media pages and television show, Keeping Up With the Kardashians. [caption id=“attachment_12098772” align=“alignnone” width=“640”]
Princess Diana wearing the famous Attallah cross in October 1987 to a charity gala in support of Birthright, a charity working towards the protection of human rights during pregnancy and childbirth. Image Courtesy: @sothebys/Instagram[/caption] Social media has shifted the cult of celebrity from the more detached celebrity of the pre-digital age towards
the consumable persona
where the boundaries between the private and the public are in constant tension. Kardashian’s over-exposure suggests her celebrity may have become too
accessible
, compromising her longer-term cultural value. Jewellery worn by Diana rarely comes up for sale. For Kardashian to own something so unique and exclusive – with its significant history – may represent an effort to move her positioning away from the superficiality of the Instagram age. Kardashian has invested in an object that has a cultural history, worn by an iconic woman, and in so doing she has become part of that story. Purchasing rare celebrity memorabilia integrates Kardashian into a different realm of culture, which is exclusive rather than accessible. Diana’s pendant has become an integral part of fashion history, not just because of its design, but because of the celebrities who have owned it.
Naomi Braithwaite
, Associate Professor in Fashion Marketing and Branding, Nottingham Trent University
This article is republished from
The Conversation
under a Creative Commons license. Read the
original article
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