How are flamingos threatening Italy’s iconic risotto dish?

Northern Italy’s prized risotto rice fields are under unexpected threat — not from disease or drought, but from flocks of flamingos that have begun wading into flooded rice paddies in Ferrara province, a key production region in the Emilia-Romagna area between Venice and Ravenna.

These long-legged waders, better known for inhabiting coastal lagoons and salt marshes, have made their way inland and are now frequenting rice paddies critical to Italy’s cherished risotto industry.

While not known to feed on rice itself, the birds have become a significant source of disruption to cultivation.

Their foraging behaviour — involving stirring shallow waters with their webbed feet to capture mollusks, algae, and insects — has caused widespread damage to germinating rice crops.

As these paddies are deliberately flooded during late spring and early summer to support the initial growth of rice seeds, they have unintentionally created ideal conditions for the birds’ feeding habits.

Impact on farmers & field

Farmers in the region have described the situation as unprecedented. According to Enrico Fabbri, a 63-year-old rice cultivator operating near Jolanda di Savoia, the losses have been devastating in certain plots.

“These are new things that have never happened before. You invest so much time and care into preparing everything,” he shared. “Then, just as the crop begins to grow, it’s like having a newborn child taken away. That’s what it feels like.”

In several of Fabbri’s paddies, up to 90 per cent of the planted area has been lost, reported AP.

While the birds are not targeting the rice itself, the collateral damage caused by their movement and feeding techniques is extensive.

The fine-tuned balance of water, soil, and seed that supports Italy’s short-grain rice varieties — essential for classic risotto dishes — is being compromised in the process.

Attempts at deterrence end in failure

Local farmers, desperate to salvage their harvests, have tried a range of deterrence methods. These include patrolling fields throughout the day and night, using truck horns, banging on metal barrels, and deploying small gas cannons that emit loud blasts.

While these tactics sometimes force the flamingos to take flight, they often just relocate to nearby paddies and continue foraging there instead.

“There is a sense of helplessness,” said Massimo Piva, a 57-year-old rice farmer and vice-president of the local farmers’ confederation.

“Obviously, we are looking for answers from those who have to deal with the problem. From an environmental point of view, all this is beautiful, but we must keep in mind that rice cultivation is among the most expensive, extensive crops.”

Piva acknowledged the allure of the birds but emphasized the need to mitigate their growing presence.

“They are beautiful animals, it’s their way of moving and behaving, but the problem is trying to limit their presence as much as possible.”

Why flamingos are there in the first place

The presence of flamingos in these agricultural zones is not entirely random. Their arrival in Ferrara is believed to be the result of broader environmental and migratory shifts.

According to Roberto Tinarelli, an ornithologist and president of the Emilia-Romagna Ornithologists Association (AsOER), the flamingos began nesting in the Comacchio Valleys, a coastal wetland area between Ferrara and Ravenna, in the early 2000s.

Their arrival there coincided with severe droughts in southern Spain, which historically served as a major breeding ground for the species.

Forced to seek out more hospitable conditions, the flamingos began moving eastward, establishing colonies along Italy’s northeastern coast, where freshwater and brackish environments are abundant.

“These birds had previously been more concentrated around North African lakes, parts of Spain, and a small portion of France’s Camargue region,” Tinarelli explained.

Since establishing themselves in Italy, the flamingos have adapted their range and are now venturing further inland, taking advantage of the rice paddies that mimic their natural feeding environments.

While no definitive studies have yet explained why the birds have extended their foraging so deeply into agricultural territory, their inland incursion is being closely watched.

So what’s the solution?

Rather than relying solely on noise or physical patrols to deter the birds, experts like Tinarelli are proposing more targeted and environmentally sensitive solutions. One such approach involves redesigning field perimeters to make them less inviting to flamingos.

This could include surrounding rice paddies with tall trees or hedgerows, which would make it harder for the birds to land and wade comfortably.

Perhaps most notably, Tinarelli has suggested a significant adjustment to water management in rice fields.

“This is sufficient for the rice to grow, but decidedly less attractive to flamingos, which must splash around in the water,” he said, referring to lowering the flood depth of newly planted paddies from the current standard of around 30 centimetres to somewhere between 5 and 10 centimetres.

According to Tinarelli, such a change would still allow rice seeds to germinate while making the fields less suitable for flamingo feeding behaviour.

At stake is more than just a seasonal harvest.

The rice grown in this region — particularly varieties such as Arborio, Carnaroli, and Vialone Nano — forms the foundation of one of Italy’s most globally recognised culinary exports: risotto.

The creamy, slow-cooked dish is a staple of Italian cuisine and relies heavily on rice cultivated under highly specific conditions.

As climate patterns shift and migratory routes change, the encroachment of wildlife into areas of human food production is likely to become more common.

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With inputs from AP