India@75: Inside the country’s only certified flag-making unit in Karnataka

Mahatma Gandhi once said, “A flag is a necessity for all nations. Millions have died for it. It is no doubt a kind of idolatry which would be a sin to destroy. For, a flag represents an Ideal.”

This statement rings loud and clear as India prepares to celebrate its 75 years of Independence. Countless people from all walks of life and all corners of the nation came together against the British Raj and marked that holy moment when India hoisted its national flag for the first time back in August 1947.

Even today, an image of the national flag fluttering high up in the sky makes the heart swell with immense pride.

But do you know who is responsible for the manufacturing of the Tricolour that instills a sense of pride and joy in every Indian’s heart? Do you know who’s behind the flag that flies high on Red Fort?

The people behind our national flag are the workers employed by the Karnataka Khadi Gramodyog Samyukta Sangha (KKGSS) in Bengeri village of Dharwad district. They are the country’s sole manufacturing and supplying facility of the Indian flag for the entire country.

As we mark India’s 75 years of independence, here’s a deep dive into the history of this organisation and the tedious process they follow to manufacture the symbol of our sovereignty.

History of KKGSS

KKGSS is the country’s lone national flag manufacturing unit approved by the Bureau of Indian Standards.

The KKGSS was founded on 1 November 1957 by a group of Gandhians, who came together to create a federation for the growth of khadi and other village industries in the region. Freedom fighter Venkatesh Magadi was chosen as its first chairman.

Today, the establishment with about 58 institutions under its aegis, is headquartered at Bengeri in Hubballi. The office is spread across 17 acres and along with the manufacturing facilities, it also houses a training college to train students in textile chemistry.

It is reported that the organisation began with an investment of Rs 10,500. Today, that money has gone a long way.

In 2006, the organisation, which is made up of mostly economically-backward women from different religions, was given the sole responsibility of manufacturing and supplying flags to the whole country.

What is takes to manufacture the Tricolour

KKGSS has over 100 women in their employment as specialist spinners and weavers.

After the cloth, material that is much stronger than denim, is spun at KKGSS’s weaving unit in Bagalkot, it is taken to Hubballi where the specialist spinners piece the flag together, paying attention to the smallest details.

The women at KKGSS unerringly adhere to the Flag Code of India and the guidelines framed by the Bureau of Indian Standards. They ensure the exact measurements, colours, size and thread count of flags. Any defect in any of the flags manufactured is a legally punitive offence, which is subject to a hefty fine or imprisonment.

KKGSS manufactures flags in nine pre-set dimensions with the smallest being 6 × 4 inches and the largest being 21 X 14 feet.

The process to produce a single flag is long and tiring. After the cloth — which undergoes 18 quality checks — arrives at KKGSS, it is divided into three lots.

Each lot is then dyed in the colours associated with the flag — saffron, white and green as per the mentioned pantone shade number in the Flag Code of India. The dyed cloth is left to dry.

To make the complete rectangular panel, dried cloth is cut into the sub panels of equal width.

The embroidery of the navy-blue Ashok Chakra consisting of equally spaced strokes is done using a screen printing technique on the white base and left to dry for two days. The Ashok Chakra is printed with perfect alignment on both sides of the cloth in the absolute centre of the panel.

After these steps, the three are now stitched to bring off a 3:2 rectangular National Flag that features saffron at the top symbolising strength and courage, green at the bottom indicating fertility, growth and auspiciousness of the land, and white as the symbol of peace and truth in the middle with dharma chakra.

In the documentary The National Flag by The Better India, women working at KKGSS also specify the right way to fold the national flag. They say the white of flag is folded inwards, then the saffron on the white and the green at the top. This is because the saffron fades in no time while green does not fade.

Drop in demand

 Each year, employees at KKGSS work tirelessly to produce and despatch the flags before Independence Day. They say in previous years they have despatched flags worth Rs 2.5 crore by July.

This year, as the country marks 75 years of Independence, they were expecting a sharp increase in demand of the Tricolour, at least Rs 8-10 crore worth of flags. However, the Centre’s decision to amend the Flag Code and allow polyester or machine-made flags for the Har Ghar Tiranga campaign has caused a dip in their sales.

“The whole country knows the significance of khadi in this country, unlike ordinary polyester. We have a history associated with it and a certain amount of respect comes with it. We do not know any other work, but we’re very proud of what we do because even if we earn less, we like working here.

The government takes money from us in the form of several taxes such as GST and keeps raising the prices of essentials, all the while decreasing our salaries. We were very happy thinking the surge in orders will solve our financial burdens, but they’ve put an axe on our feet by making this move,” Rehana Ballary, who has been working as a tailor with the KKGSS for 18 years, was quoted as telling News Minute.

So, next time you look at the national flag flying high, think of the employees at KKGSS and their efforts.

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