Tarun Tahiliani’s ‘Global Indian’ collection was a playful symphony of luminous hues and cascading drapes

Tarun Tahiliani’s luxury prêt collection presented at the FDCI X Lakme Fashion Week echoed the master couturier’s marked signature drapery combined with technology — resulting in a one-of-a-kind collection that is, in equal parts, structured, sleek, and aerodynamic for women and men alike. Presented at a time of renewed hope, optimism, and joy in revelry, the new season’s glamorous line-up mirrored the current sentiments of our times. Tahiliani collection was a treat to the eyes with the artful use of unusual textures, modern cuts and details, textiles are woven with zari thread and resham to create metallic-textured sheen reminiscent of molten metals, and the generous use of prints that have been hand-painted in an embroidered form.

Celebrating metallic tones of blacks, golds, greys, and blush pinks, Tahiliani’s ‘Global Indian’ collection is a playful symphony of luminous hues and cascading drapes designed for the future generation that is confident, experimental, has fashion in its roots and values design with a global interpretation. For women, this was showcased in an elaborate array of seductive, sensual silhouettes such as lehengas, conceptual sarees, structured body corsets, kaftans, jumpsuits, gowns, co-ords, dhoti pants, and gilets soaked in a multitude of motifs, often accentuated with a belt wrapped at the waist. For men, these translated into kurtas, banddgala sherwanis, bundi jackets, dhoti pants, pyjamas, and churidars. Firstpost caught up with Tahiliani to discuss his collection, on fashion going local and the fashion scene post-pandemic. Excerpts:

Tell us about the technique used in your collection.

We have experimented with a few of our older techniques such as Rangrez, where we now have the brocade strips that are handwoven for us, seamed on to gilets, trousers, cholis and in spite of being ready to wear pieces they are super luxe. The separates are so easy to mix and match and make them luxury pret.

On fashion going local.

Global economies and comparative advantage production dehumanises production and are bad for the local craft. So, I am absolutely thrilled with fashion going local. Besides if we do not have sensitivity towards our cultural and craft heritage, who will? We are blessed with a beautiful heritage and abundance of richness in our country and our clothes look beautiful with all their variations and colours.

On the revival of weaves

It is important to take our culture and heritage forward. The revival of weaves makes me very happy as Indian designers can help the local artisans from communities by using their craft and applying them into their fashion and making it relevant. With this collection of luxury pret, we want to break the notion that Indian wear can only be worn for weddings and make these clothes a part of our day-to-day lifestyle as well by curating ready-to-wear pieces.

How has the pandemic affected the fashion industry?

The pandemic has undoubtedly brought a massive change in the way people shop as well as in the design industry. With the lockdown forcing us to stay at home, a great shift was seen towards athleisure clothing which in my opinion most of the big fashion houses would have to ultimately incorporate and shift towards.

Fashion is becoming more sustainable and versatile with customers wanting to buy pieces that can be worn in multiple ways rather than being a part of a singular set. The lockdown forced us to accept our individuality and showcase it for the world to see rather than succumbing to the varied norms and trends that society tries to force upon us. Therefore, it is extremely refreshing to see people more in tune with their needs and how they wish to present themselves. Also, the importance of athleisure and comfortable fits is another factor that has played largely and at the end, all big fashion houses would have to understand and pay heed to this new phenomenon and trend in the fashion world.

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