How Bengaluru’s expansion threatens Tumakuru’s glorious heritage

A few days ago, Karnataka’s Home Minister G Parameshwara announced that he had submitted a report recommending conversion of Tumakuru district into ‘Bengaluru North’. While the state capital has been growing organically, this formal expansion could see dramatic changes. And while real estate companies will be eagerly waiting to pounce, the danger is that the laidback, rural character of Tumakuru will change. And not necessarily for the better!

When a tsunami of urbanisation comes upon a rural area, heritage sites rarely get discussed. Possibly because the government agencies charged with their protection keep a low decibel level. And by the time common people look beyond real estate valuations, it is too late. Tumakuru district is dotted with heritage sites, and while they will not be swept away, they may find themselves surrounded by buildings within a few years. The temple sites, which thrive on tranquil surroundings, could be stuck in concrete hubs.

The district is filled with nuggets of heritage – a result of having been touched by varied dynasties like the Gangas, Rashtrakutas, Chalukyas, Nolambas, Cholas, Hoysalas and various others, each leaving their imprint on the place. While ‘development’ is always welcomed, one hopes it comes with a degree of respect for the past. Here is a snapshot of some of the sites that thrive in Tumakuru’s hitherto peaceful setting and which, one hopes, will continue to thrive:

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Kunigal: The place is home to three temples – the Narasimha, Padmesvara and Somesvara. The Narasimha was originally a Hoysala shrine but witnessed significant additions in the Vijaynagara period. Though named after Narasimha, the central deity appears to be an icon of Janardana. The linga in the Somesvara shrine has been dated to the 12th century CE. Near a beautiful water body are memorial hero-stones, small icons that are still in worship, pillars of lost temples as well as shrines of Nagas. While the larger temples are in their compounds, it is the tiny and isolated shrines that are extremely vulnerable. And of course, the water body might tempt builders the way Bengaluru’s lakes have been systematically built over.

Nagalapura: While the Kedareshwara Temple lies outside the main inhabited area, the Channakeshava is in the middle of the village. While both are Hoysala temples, the carvings on the former are more detailed. The outer wall of its sanctum forms a sixteen-pointed star, a classic design of the Hoysala period. Inside a Shiva linga. The Channakeshava is less intricate but is missing its main idol. What else may vanish if the area changes character is anyone’s guess.

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Turuvekere: The quiet village of Turuvekere houses the Channigaraya, Shankareshvara and Gangadhareshvara temples. The first two are Hoysala temples, and in the first is an image of Channakeshava that stands over five feet in height. The Gangadhareshvara is a later shrine whose noteworthy feature is a huge Nandi icon placed in its mandapa. Carved out of locally found black stone called Turuvekere-kallu, the Nandi is stunningly embellished with garlands and a bell around its neck.

Aralaguppe: The Channekeshava Temple here is one of the most magnificent works of the Hoysala period. On its outer walls are rows of carved icons – horsemen, elephants, divine beings and various gods, especially Vishnu in different forms. Amazingly, in its carved panels is the name ‘Honoja’ – apparently the artist who made these carvings. It may not be a UNESCO World Heritage site, but temples such as this complete the Hoysala narrative.

Settikere: The Yogamadhava Temple here was originally Hoysala but was modified in the Vijaynagara period. Standing on a high platform, this shrine’s standout feature is the presence of three cells or sanctums. While the north and south cells house a Lakshminarayana and a Venugopala icon, respectively, it is the cell in the west that is central. With a tower rising above it, this has a rare icon of Yogamadhava on a Garuda, giving the temple its name. Facing the shrine is a gateway that is sans a gopuram above. Further away, outside the temple compound, is a mediaeval column. The temple grounds are quite bare, almost artificially so. Perhaps something else stood here that has been removed.

Sira: This place was a provincial centre under the Mughals, under the Bijapur state and even under Mysore. Unlike the other forts in this district, which are hill forts, Sira’s fort is on flat land, its moat having served as a protection. One needs to hunt a bit to find the fort today. Its walls and gateways stand strong, but little else remains, a victim of the battles of the mediaeval era. Spread across the town are a Jama Masjid, the Barakki Masjid and the dargah of Malik Rihan. Predictably, these have their own following and are hence, in better shape.

Tumakuru district is also home to numerous hill forts, such as Madhugiri, Midigeshi, Nidugal, Huliyurdurga and others. But being harder to access, in varying degrees, these should be able to escape the ground-level changes. The challenge that the hill forts already face comes from erosion by the elements and neglect. If one were to include other places such as Vignasanthe, Gubbi, Nonvinakere, Chiknayakaahalli and Pankajanahalli, to name but a few of several, this list could be extended considerably, but the sites mentioned are substantial to establish the antiquity of the Tumakuru region.

One can also add the point that Palaeolithic remains have been found in Kibbanahalli, near Tiptur, taking back the region’s history to a much earlier era. One hopes that if it were to ever become an official extension of Bengaluru, the chaos of that urban jungle does not engulf the peace of Tumakuru.

The author is a heritage explorer with a penchant for seeking obscure sites. A brand consultant by profession, he tweets @HiddenHeritage. Views expressed in the above piece are personal and solely those of the author. They do not necessarily reflect Firstpost’s views.