All illustrations by Shawn D’Souza for Firstpost Festivals, in India, may mean many things — gathering with family and friends, the thrill of having presents from the elders, new clothes, a holiday from everyday routines. Unbridled joy. They also mean food. From veritable feasts prepared in the days leading up to the festival, to family recipes brushed off only on these special days, the aromas and flavours one remembers wafting through the home on festive occasions, and best of all, that satisfied, lethargic rest after an excellent repast — these are the memories we associate with festival food. Eid-ul-Adha, or Bakri Eid, is an important festival for Muslims. While the tradition of Bakri Eid — where a goat/sheep is sacrificed and its meat is divided into three shares: one for the home, another for relatives and the third to be distributed among the poor — remains the same everywhere, there is diversity in the culinary delights that are prepared across regions. In addition to the quintessential biriyani and kebabs, dishes like the lucknawi mutton chaap from Awadh, mutta mala from Kerala and methi maaz from Kashmir also feature prominently in the feasts of this festival. These traditional dishes are made as per heirloom recipes, handed down from one generation to the next. *** METHI MAAZ “Bakri Eid is celebrated exactly the same way across Srinagar and it is completely different from Bakri Eid celebrations in other parts of the country,” says Marryam H Reshii, a noted food critic and writer. Based in Delhi, Reshii has been writing about the Valley’s food for more than 25 years now. She points out that in Kashmir, people don’t eat goat meat; sheep meat is what is consumed by the locals. Reshii says that this is the reason why Kashmiris don’t call Eid-ul-Adha Bakri Eid, they call it ‘bodd-Eid’ instead, which means ‘the big Eid’ in Kashmiri. On the subject of distinct flavours in the food, Reshii credits the women as being “the keepers of traditions”. When a new bride moves into her husband’s house, she carries the flavours of her maika (maternal home) to the sasural (in-laws). Reshii also sheds light on the culinary homogeneity in Kashmiri culture. “In Kashmir, one can’t really say that a certain dish is a ‘speciality’ of one’s family,” she says, “Kashmiris themselves are a very traditional people. Everybody is fine with maintaining that uniformity in the culture, no one really wants to stand out in any way. So, individualism is not prized.” Considering the socio-political environment of the state, this cultural unity is considered a pleasant constant. Refrigerators in Kashmiri households have a strong connection to Bakr-Eid. In Kashmir, one ideally doesn’t need a refrigerator at home since the weather is usually cold throughout the year. A limited amount of meat is eaten on a daily basis with vegetables, and the meal is consumed the same day that it is prepared. However, these refrigerators are bought only keeping Bodd Eid in mind, as there are several kilos of meat at home that comes from the sacrificial sheep of the house as well as that which is given by the neighbours. Hence, storing all that meat under refrigeration becomes paramount. For the rest of the year, the fridge remains marginally used. Kashmiris make a plethora of dishes with just meat as the base; no vegetables are used at all. Reshii says while people across the country talk about biriyanis and kebabs during Bakri Eid, in Kashmir, there’s none of that. “For us, it is rogan josh, all the dishes that go into making a wazwan, except rista and gushtawa, that no household prepares. We have one chicken dish, we have one dish cooked in curd called yakhni.” Methi maaz is one of the dishes that makes abundant use of meat. It is a starter, served on rice. A tablespoon or two per person at the start of the meal suffices. Ingredients Sheep stomach and large intestine — 500 grams Dried fenugreek (methi) leaves, reconstituted in warm water — 2 tablespoons Garlic, peeled and chopped — 2 tablespoons Small cardamom (green) — 2 Large cardamom (black) — 2 Cinnamon stick — 1-inch piece Clove — 1 Turmeric powder — 1 teaspoon Chilli powder — 1 teaspoon (levelled up) Fennel powder — 1/2 teaspoon Salt to taste Method Wash the stomach and intestines thoroughly in several changes of water and a final soaking in hot water is necessary. The stomach needs to be scraped with the blunt end of a knife till smooth. Chop the stomach and intestines coarsely till the pieces are more or less the same size: an inch in length and a quarter of an inch in width. Tip the meat into boiling water, to which a pinch of turmeric, salt and a bit of chopped garlic is added. After 3 minutes of rapid boiling, turn off the gas and discard all the water. In a wok (kadhai), fry the stomach and intestines in ghee or a combination of ghee and oil with the garlic, turmeric and fennel powder. Add the whole spices and saute on low heat, adding a ladle of stock from time to time. When the intestines are soft and the water is absorbed, add the chilli powder and the reconstituted methi leaves on a slow fire. It is at this moment that the magic happens and the scent of the methi fills the room. There should not be any flowing gravy in the dish, but it shouldn’t be completely dry either. Blend well, check the seasoning and serve. *** [imgcenter]
Ingredients Whole wheat flour (atta) — 1/2 kilo Semolina (rawa) — 200 grams Ghee — 1 kilo Almonds, soaked in water, skin peeled and cut into small slices — 200 grams Cuddapah almonds (charoli/ chironji) — 200 grams Edible gum (gundar/ gond) — 100 grams Milk — 2 cups Jaggery — 1 kilo Eggs — 3 Coconut shavings for garnishing Method Mix atta, rawa, eggs, then add warm milk to it and bind into a hard dough. Form small balls and flatten them to make muthias (dumplings). In a kadhai (wok) add ghee. When hot add the muthias and fry them till golden brown. Remove in a covered vessel and let it cool. In the same ghee add gundar and fry till it pops like popcorn. Add the muthias in the food processor and grind them. They should blend into small crumbs. In a big flat vessel, take a little ghee from the kadhai and add crushed jaggery. Keep stirring and cook on a low flame till all the jaggery melts and a good consistency is achieved. Be careful not to overcook. Remove from flame and add blended crumbs, gundar and all the dry fruits. Mix thoroughly and garnish with coconut shavings. *** UPPU KANDAM Writer and food blogger Hazeena Seyad has been actively working on reviving the Ravuthar cuisine and ensuring that the traditional recipes of this community are not forgotten. The Ravuthars are a sub-community of the Tamil Muslims and are based in Tamil Nadu and parts of Kerala. Seyad talks about how Eid-ul-Adha means there is an abundance lot of meat – and meat-based recipes – in the house. Uppu Kandam is an authentic recipe from Seyad’s paternal grandmother. “Back then, people did not know to prepare as many dishes using meat [on the same day]. In addition to this, they did not have access to refrigeration. They wondered about how to preserve meat and eventually came up with this dish,” Seyad says, adding that uppu kandam is a salty, peppery, crispy and rustic mutton preparation in which the taste of the sun comes through as the most dominating factor. Usually, the preparation of traditional delicacies requires time, but the uppu kandam cooks quickly. Though it is comfort food, the dish is still very much part of the Ravuthar cuisine. “Growing up, my school lunch box used to be mostly filled with uppu kandam rice. Mom used to just mix rice with the oil and fried meat,” says Seyad.
Ingredients Boneless mutton, cubed — 1 kilo Turmeric powder — 1 ½ tablespoon Pepper — 1 cup Cumin seeds — 1/4 cup Coconut oil — 3 tablespoons Rock salt — 3 tablespoons Coconut oil or ghee (to fry) – 1/2 cup Other requirements Thick twine, a thin rope or thin metallic wire Big needle Meat hammer Method Grind all the ingredients except the mutton together into a smooth paste, while adding a little water. Taste and adjust the ingredients; the salt and heat should be more than necessary to ensure it seeps into the meat and dries out well. Wash the meat, drain and pat dry (in the past, people didn’t really wash the meat). Apply the ground masala to the pat-dried meat and mix well. String the masala-mixed meat with the help of a needle and heavy twine (alternatively, a thin metallic wire can also be used. It is rather hassle-free). Tie the stringed meat over a high place where there is good sunlight, which helps the meat to dry out fast. Ensure that no cats or dogs can access the meat hanging. A gap of half an inch must be maintained between each piece of meat. Dry it in the sun for at least one week or so, till the meat is completely dried out. When it is dropped on your kitchen counter, it should sound like a fallen pebble. This dried meat can be stored in airtight containers for a year or more. Whenever required, take 8 pieces of meat (serves 3-4 people), place them over the ammi kal (grindstone) and beat them with the hammer till they become a thin, spread-out meat piece. Then shred the hammered meat piece into thin shreds. Heat coconut oil or ghee and fry the dried shredded meat for one and a half minute until it cooks entirely and becomes crisp. Drain and serve when it has cooled a little, as the crispness is felt only at a lower temperature (The fried remaining oil can be mixed with boiled rice and eaten). One can also fry in advance and store it in airtight containers. It is best served with boiled white rice for lunch or with kanji (rice porridge). *** [imgcenter]
Ingredients Eggs — 7 Sugar — 1 cup Water — 3/4 cup Milk powder — 1/4 cup Cardamom pods (green), crushed and powdered — 1 teaspoon Ghee — 1/2 tablespoon Method For mutta mala Separate the egg yolks and whites in separate bowls and set aside. Beat yolks well and strain through a fine strainer or muslin cloth so as to get a smooth mix. Meanwhile, boil sugar and water till you get a syrup of one-string consistency. Allow it to simmer on medium flame. Pour the yolk mix into a plastic container with small holes or traditionally a coconut shell with three small holes. Close the holes with your fingers and bring the container over simmering syrup and slowly remove fingers to get thin strings of yolk mixture falling into the syrup. Allow yolk to cook in syrup till stringy. Strain and set aside. Cool and set the remaining syrup aside. For mutta sirka or kinnathappam Beat the whites well. Add in the milk powder and crushed cardamom. Beat well and add in the remaining sugar syrup (from the mutta mala recipe) and mix well. Grease an edged steel plate or edged baking tray with ghee. Pour in the white mix and steam till done (for approximately 15 minutes). When it gets cooled down, cut into squares or diamond shapes. Serve with the stringy mutta mala. *** DUM KI SEVIYAN For Chef Anees Khan of Star Anise Fine Foods & Leisure Pvt Ltd, Bakri Eid brings back a lot of childhood memories. “The Bakri Eid ritual was wearing a fresh new pathani dress and visiting the eidgah along with my abba. After the prayers we used to rush home because of two reasons, one was to wish my ammi and sister Eid Mubarak, and an even more important reason was to savour the dum ki seviyan,” he says. Khan’s great grandfather came from Afghanistan and settled in Brahmapur, a small coastal town situated on the Odisha-Andhra Pradesh border. The flavours in the cuisine of Muslim families in these areas of Odisha have developed as a result of this border culture and are also influenced by South India. (During the mid-18th century, the southern part of the state was part of the larger Madras Presidency). “Bakri Eid has always been my favourite because of the food that was prepared and spread on the dastarkhwaan. The meat was distributed among the poor and needy, and friends and relatives. Most of it was also marinated, skewed on bicycle spokes and roasted on charcoal… what flavours!” Khan and his siblings would eagerly wait to savour this version of seviyan. “The roasted seviyan with desi ghee, nuts and mawa add a fantastic twist to this dish once this goes on dum. The aroma and the fragrance of the seviyan would dance around the house and we would dig into bowls of this delicacy,” recounts Khan, adding that the same tradition continues in his own home with his children.
Ingredients Broken vermicelli (seviyan) — 500 grams Sugar — 250 grams Condensed milk (khowa/mawa) — 250 grams Ghee — 250 grams Almonds — 8 Pistachios, thinly sliced — 8 Cashew nuts, thinly sliced — 4-6 Raisins — 8 Saffron (zafran) strands — 8 Method Heat the ghee in a deep-bottomed pan. Fry all the dry fruits until brown and add vermicelli to it and fry till brown. Dissolve sugar in another pan; add the saffron and heat up till the syrup is thick. Add the sugar syrup to the roasted vermicelli and keep the flame low. Add mawa to the vermicelli and cook on low flame with a lid on — thus giving it dum — till the vermicelli is cooked and is dry enough. Plate it and garnish with dry fruits and edible silver leaves (varak). Serve hot. *** [imgcenter]
Chitua Ingredients Gobindobhog rice — 1 kilo Jaggery dates — 50 grams Yeast — 5 grams Cow milk — 250 ml Lukewarm water as required Salt to taste Method Activate yeast in a little lukewarm water. Soak the rice overnight. The next day, drain the water and air dry the rice. Grind it to a fine powder. Use a sieve, if required, to ensure the powder is fine. To this rice powder, add the activated yeast, a little water and salt. Ferment it for 2 hours. Add milk and adjust the consistency. Ideally, the consistency should be that of the dosa batter. In a specialised clay tawa (flat pan), pour to make circles of 4-inch diameter and cook over low heat. Sprinkle the date jaggery on top and cover it till done. Serve hot. Mutton tikiya Ingredients Boneless leg of lamb — 1 kilo Ginger — 20 grams Garlic — 30 grams Green chilli — 15 grams Brown onion — 100 grams Dry pea lentil, soaked — 200 grams Garam masala* — 40 grams Raw papaya paste — 25 grams Breadcrumbs/puffed rice — 120 grams Peppercorn, crushed — 15 grams Ghee — 100 grams Salt to taste *(for Garam Masala) Clove — 15 grams Small cardamom (green) — 15 grams Star anise — 10 grams Big cardamom (black) — 10 grams Bay leaves — 4 Shahi jeera — 10 grams Cinnamon — 10 grams Nutmeg — 5 grams Mace — 5 grams Kababchini — 7 grams Method Wash, trim and cut lamb into chunks. Coarsely grind pea lentil and set aside. Mince the meat finely along with all other items except breadcrumbs. Mix the coarsely ground lentil into it and add breadcrumbs. Make small patties out of it and shallow fry in ghee in a heavy-bottomed pan on medium heat. Serve it hot with green and mint chutneys. *** [imgcenter]
Ingredients For Kofta Minced mutton (keema), cooked — 1/8 kilo Minced mutton (keema), raw — 1/4 kilo Garam masala — 1 teaspoon Coriander leaves, finely chopped — 1 teaspoon Mint leaves, finely chopped — 1 teaspoon Green chillies, finely chopped — 6 For Khorma Mutton bones — 100 grams Curd, beaten — 1/2 cup Coriander leaves, finely chopped — 2 tablespoons Mint leaves, finely chopped — 2 tablespoons Green chillies, finely chopped — 4 Onion, sliced — 1 Ginger-garlic paste — 2 teaspoons Red chilli powder — 1 teaspoon Turmeric powder — 1 teaspoon Chickpeas, roasted and powdered (phutana chana) — 1 tablespoon Garam masala powder (cloves, cardamom, cinnamon and shahjeera) — 1 teaspoon Poppy seeds (khus khus) — 2 tablespoons Cuddapah almonds (chironji) — 1 teaspoon Cashew nut (kaju) — 1 teaspoon Saffron — 1 pinch Oil — 4 tablespoons Method Grind the raw keema with the garam masala and the finely chopped coriander leaves, mint leaves and green chillies. Mix it with the cooked keema, knead it and make balls out of it for the koftas. Dry roast the khus khus, chironji and kaju, and grind it (with some water) to form a fine paste. Mix the phutana chana powder with a quarter cup of water and form a paste. Lightly brown onions in oil in an open pressure cooker. Add ginger-garlic paste, turmeric, red chilli powder and salt, stir and brown the mix. Add bones and stir well. Then add one cup of water and pressure cook for 10 minutes. When it has cooled, open the pressure cooker. Add beaten curd and all the pastes. Stir it well and let it simmer for 5 minutes. Add a pinch of saffron and a cup of water. When it starts to boil, add the koftas and cook on a low flame for 10 minutes. Serve hot with rice/ roti. *** LUCKNAWI MUTTON CHAAP “In the earlier days, whenever the Nawabs travelled, they took along their personal khansamas. As a result, there was a wide exchange of recipes and styles among chefs and cooks. That’s the reason why lucknawi mutton chaap, a favourite of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, reached Delhi and with some minor tweaking here and there, became a part of Mughlai cuisine as well,” reveals Chef Shadab Ahmed Qureshi, Chef De Cuisine at Jyran, Sofitel Mumbai BKC. Qureshi is the seventh generation of the legendary family of Qureshi chefs of Lucknow. His maternal grandfather is the renowned chef and Padma Shri awardee Imtiaz Qureshi, who revolutionised the Indian culinary scene with his inimitable dum pakht style (cooking on low flame) which is an attribute of the Nawabi cuisine of Lucknow. “While the Awadhi cuisine and Mughlai cuisine both stemmed from the same school of culinary art patronised by the Mughals in Delhi, there is a distinct touch to each of them in terms of flavours,” remarks Qureshi. He explains the difference: Awadhi cuisine relies more on the aroma and is considerably lighter, while Mughlai cuisine is richer and is slightly less aromatic. Awadhi cuisine relies on longer marination of the meat and then cooking it on low flame. “Awadhi cuisine uses kewra water, rose water and meetha itr (edible perfume) in great quantities. Some of the Mughlai dishes do use kewra and rose water but in very little portions; itr is not used at all.” Speaking about his memories of food at home during Bakri Eid, Qureshi recounts how his family would pick out all the chops from the three shares of the sacrificial meat. “From the earliest memories I have, I remember my mother making these chops. It used to be my grandfather’s favourite dish during Eid, and it has remained so. The whole idea of festivity during Eid is to sit with the entire family and savour these delicious chops.”
Ingredients Mutton chops — 1 kilo Raw papaya paste — 50 grams Yoghurt — 150 grams Ginger-garlic paste — 30 grams Garam masala — 25 grams Red chilli powder — 25 grams Onion, finely sliced — 150 grams Cumin powder — 10 grams Almond paste — 50 grams Melon-seeds (charmagaz) paste — 50 grams Cashew nut paste — 25 grams Ghee — 50 grams Saffron, dissolved in water — 1 teaspoon Kewra and rose water — 1-2 drops Salt to taste Method Wash the mutton chops and place them in a bowl. Add chilli powder and salt in the bowl and mix well. Add the raw papaya paste and some ginger-garlic paste. (Each of these ingredients should be rubbed separately into the mixture.). Keep aside for 1.5 hours and wrap it with cling film and refrigerate. In a flat fry pan, add one teaspoon of ghee. Fry the sliced onions till they become translucent in this pan. Add the remaining ginger-garlic paste. (Please note that the garlic and ginger do not turn brown). Cool it and make a paste in the mixer. In the same pan, add another tablespoon of oil, warm it and slowly add the chops along with the marinade. Braise it on a high flame for 5 minutes. Add the fried onion-ginger-garlic paste now and keep braising on a medium flame. Then, add the almond paste, melon-seeds paste and cashew nut paste. Next add spices (make a paste of garam masala, cumin powder and red chilli powder) and keep braising on a medium flame. Cook well and sprinkle some salt. By now, the meat should leave enough fat. If not, then add a few drops of ghee. Once satisfied with the colour of the meat and when the braising is done, check the seasoning and mix well. Stir in saffron water and a few drops of kewra water and rose water. Cover the pan tightly and let it simmer on a low flame until done. Once it is cooked, put a lid on it for some time before serving. Serve the mutton chaap with mint chutney.
*** About the artist: Shawn D’Souza is a textile designer and illustrator. Follow his work on Instagram .