Suited to perfection: Every man's guide to buying a suit

By Yatan Ahluwalia Besides changing the way you look and feel, a good suit will always make heads turn. But an ill-fitting suit can just as easily make you look sloppy or unkempt. Choosing the right kind isn’t difficult if you follow our comprehensive guide on how to choose and buy a suit. Pick your Type Business suits are worn to the office, business meetings, conferences and when travelling on work. [caption id=“attachment_52320” align=“alignleft” width=“380” caption=“The choice of fabric, can ‘make or break’ your look. Image courtesy: Yatan Ahluwalia”] ![Image courtesy: Yatan Ahluwalia](https://images.firstpost.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/Imageforinside1.jpg "Imageforinside1") [/caption] Elements: Solid colours, occasionally pin striped, medium weight and crease free fabrics. Casual suits are best for weekend brunches, club and dress down events. Elements: Pale colours, lightweight and soft fabrics, jackets that may be worn on their own with jeans, corduroys and casual trousers. Formal suits are recommended for sit-down dinners, cocktails, award nights, formal ceremonies, weddings and receptions. Elements: Dark colours, rich fabrics, materials with gloss and sheen. Trendy suits belong in nightclubs, lounge bars and parties. Elements: Bright colours, contrasting coloured buttons, cuffs or lapels fabrics that are printed, embellished or textured. Choose the Fabric The choice of fabric, can ‘make or break’ your look. This is how you will never go wrong: First and foremost, avoid thick, bulky and coarse fabrics and embrace softer varieties. Irrespective of what you choose, make sure that it gives you a good smart fit, does not crease too easily or droop in high humidity. Day: Pick light, soft and crease free materials like polyester tweed and poplin— these could be plain, textured or printed. Evening: Choose heavier, rich, textured or printed fabrics like flannel, silk blends, poplin and seersucker that could be matt or have a natural gloss or sheen. Summer: Always wear fabrics that are light and airy like linen and cotton — so you can stay well ventilated. Winter: Stick to soft wool or traditional wool blends like cashmere and herringbone or polyester blends that will keep you snug, warm and cosy. Casual: Restrict yourself to lightweight and plain, soft fabrics. Formal: Opt for medium to heavy weight fabrics — either plain or printed. Some selections you could consider while picking the right suit [fpgallery id=129] Pick the Colour: Choosing the right colour is really not that tough. Most suits come in varying shades of grey, brown, beige, blue and black. You may occasionally come across flamboyant or dandy suits that are white, olive green, pink, red, lemon, burgundy or purple in colour. Always pick the colour of your suit according to the time of day, where you are going to be, what the occasion is and if the invite includes a dress code. Day colours: Restrict yourself to a grey or beige palette. Alternatively, you could break the monotony by wearing shades of white, olive green or brown. Continues on the next page Evening colours: Dark tones of grey and brown. Colours like navy blue and black are ideal to wear for a late evening party or a night out. Colour tip 1: Always wear lighter shades for the day and darker ones for the night. Colour tip 2: Warm colours (brown and beige) work with dark skin tones and cold colours (grey and blue) with pale or light skin. Neutral colours like black and white can be worn by all skin tones. Select your Style It’s the jacket that sets your suit apart. Here’s how: Single button: You should wear single button jackets when you want to emphasise on the shirt or tie that you have on underneath. You can also wear single button jackets over a simple or trendy full sleeve t-shirt. Two and three button: Two buttoned jackets with long lapels give you a flattering, longer silhouette. Similarly, jackets with three buttons add an illusion of length to the body. Double-breasted: These jackets can make you look a bit boxy and out of shape. Thankfully, they are now considered old fashioned and outdated. Get the point: avoid, refrain and never be seen in them. Know your Body Type Matching a style or cut to your body type isn’t just for women. The wrong kind of suit can make you look too short, lean or large. [caption id=“attachment_52324” align=“alignright” width=“250” caption=“For tall and lean men: Stay away from vertical stripes, including pinstripes since they tend to accentuate height.Image courtesy: Yatan Ahluwalia”] ![Image courtesy: Yatan Ahluwalia](https://images.firstpost.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/Imageforinside2.jpg "Imageforinside2") [/caption] If you are tall or lean: Stay away from vertical stripes, including pinstripes since they tend to accentuate height. If you prefer to stick to prints, then horizontal stripes and subtle plaids are more flattering patterns to wear. If you are short or overweight: Avoid long jackets, cuffed trousers and loud patterns. Pinstripes, stripes (as long as they are not too bold) and darker day shades are your best bet since they will make you look both taller and slimmer. If you are big and bulky: Embrace dark colours; straight fit cuts and two or three button styles. Avoid all kinds of prints and textured fabrics – the plainer your suit is, the better it will be. Final checklist Before you pay the bill, keep the following in mind: How it fits: Remember, the more structured and fitted your silhouette, the smarter you will look. Always ensure that your suit allows you to move with ease and that it does not fold too much, especially around the shoulders and sleeves. A good suit will allow easy movement but will not crease too much in these areas. How it’s made: While custom-tailored remains a favoured option, many ready-to-wear brands and designers retail some well-cut, off-the-rack suits that they will be happy to alter to your size and fit. Does it give you value for money: While some of us would like to spend that little extra on a good suit, never spend too much on a suit simply for a brand name. Very few people (except you) will actually get to see the label. Spend if you must, but on the fabric and for quality tailoring and craftsmanship. Coming next week: The second installment of Suited to Perfection. Details on lapels, collars, cuffs, trousers and shirts. Also how to mix and match suits, and how to get the perfect fit and silhouette when you wear them. Plus: our guide to storing, ironing, dry cleaning and taking care of your suits. Stay tuned. The author is a fashion and image consultant and Director, Y&E Style Media Ltd., India’s leading styling & corporate grooming company.

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Suited to perfection: Every man's guide to buying a suit

A good suit is a must-have and will always make heads turn. But an ill-fitting one can just as easily make you look like a slob. Choosing the right kind isn’t difficult if you follow our comprehensive guide.

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