 "No Reservations: Why Britain’s oldest Indian restaurant may be forced to shut down")
Britain’s love for curry is known the world over. But now, one of the country’s most famous and oldest curry houses — a term used for eateries that serve Indian food — may be facing closure in its 99th year, just a few months short of its centenary.
Veeraswamy, a Michelin-starred Indian restaurant that opened in 1926, is at risk of closing due to a dispute with the Crown Estate, which owns the building the restaurant has occupied for nearly a century. For those who don’t know, the Crown Estate is an independent commercial business run by a board — the Crown Estate commissioners. It belongs to the King for the duration of his reign as sovereign.
Here’s what we know about the food fight that is forcing the historical Veeraswamy out of its location.
The Crown Estate vs Veeraswamy
The existence of Veeraswamy, Britain’s oldest Indian restaurant, is at risk thanks to a dispute with the Crown Estate. The Crown Estate, which owns Victory House where the Michelin-starred Veeraswamy is located, has sent a mail to the owners of the restaurant, saying it could not extend its lease beyond June.
Ranjit Mathrani, who co-owns Veeraswamy, said the news “came out of the blue” as the estate, had last year, asked him if they wanted more space in the building. At the time, he had turned down the offer, as he was unsure if he could fill the extra tables.
However, the Crown Estate maintains that the issue has arisen because it wants to extend the ground floor reception area for the offices on the building’s upper floors. Knocking through into Veeraswamy’s entrance area would give it an extra 11 sq metres.
According to a report in The Times, the Crown Estate says it needs to take back that space from Veeraswamy so it can complete a 12-month renovation of the entire building, including the enlarging of the office entrance.
In a statement, the Crown Estate stated, “We need to carry out a comprehensive refurbishment of Victory House. Due to the limited options available in this listed building we need to remove the entrance to the restaurant, which means we will not be able to offer Veeraswamy an extension when their lease expires.”
Without its own entrance, Veeraswamy has said it will not be able to operate. Mathrani further added that he had requested the monarch’s property developer if they could make an entrance for him elsewhere, but it said that would not be possible.
A furious Mathrani was quoted as telling The Times, “They don’t care a bugger for history. Had they wanted to, they could’ve easily… put the [office] reception on the first floor. If they’d have asked us to match the [office] rent, I would have.”
He further added that he would be approaching the courts now in this matter, adding that if the royal family were informed of the changes to the restaurant, they wouldn’t be happy. “They believe in history, in living history, and that’s what this restaurant is. It’s not just a museum, and I think they would be disappointed that an institution bearing their name would be so heartless,” the 81-year-old was quoted as telling The Guardian.
Delicious history of Veeraswamy
Veeraswamy, located just around the corner from Piccadilly Circus, first opened its doors on 1926. It was started by Edward Palmer, an Anglo-Indian retired British Indian Army officer, who was the great grandson of General William Palmer and the Moghul Princess Faisan Nissa Begum.
However, in 1934, MP William Stewart took charge of Veeraswamy, with the website stating that “his obsessive attention to detail and quality” helped the restaurant reach its golden age with visits from celebrities across the world.
In its golden period, Veeraswamy served royalty as well as world leaders. Notable figures such as India’s first Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru, and Indira Gandhi, the former prime minister of India, have savoured the restaurant’s delectable offerings. Even legendary actor Charlie Chaplin frequented Veeraswamy, adding to its star-studded allure. Even Britain’s Prince Edward was a frequent visitor, with his coat of arms hanging outside the door.
Britain’s former Prime Minister Winston Churchill and Hollywood’s Marlon Brando have also devoured food at Veeraswamy.
According to the restaurant’s website, Stewart’s tenure ended in 1967. And in 1996, the restaurant was taken over by current owners – Namita Panjabi & Ranjit Mathrani of MW Eat.
In 2008, the restaurant catered for a function held by Queen Elizabeth II at Buckingham Palace and it was invited back to launch the UK-India 2017 Year of Culture. In 2016, the restaurant — in its 90th year — also received a Michelin star that it holds to this day.
A culinary affair
Since opening its doors to the public, Veeraswamy has delighted patrons with contemporary regional Indian dishes from around the country. The menu specialises in dishes from India’s historic royal kitchens, including Hyderabadi, Mughal, and Patiala dishes richly flavoured with aromatics like rose and saffron.
It also blends quality British meats with regional Indian specialities, like a Goan vindaloo made with Creedy Carver duck.
Veeraswamy’s customers swear by the food at the restaurant. As one patron was quoted as telling GBNews, “It’s the best restaurant meal I have ever tasted.”
With inputs from agencies
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