How the Indian Navy is going desi by bringing kurta-pyjama in naval messes

The Indian Navy is on the path to shed its colonial past. In line with this, the armed force has reportedly issued directives to its commands and establishments allowing officers and sailors to wear kurta-pyjamas in naval messes. The move comes just months after the Navy unveiled its new design of the Admirals’ epaulettes that reflected the legacy of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. Why is the Navy introducing the ethnic kurta-pyjama for its personnel? How is the force trying to put an end to ‘ghulami ki maansikta’ or colonial mindset? Let’s take a closer look. Ethnic wear to enter Indian Navy’s messes As per a Times of India (TOI) report, officers and sailors can wear the “ethnic” dress of kurta-pyjamas, with sleeveless jackets and closed formal shoes or sandals, in officers’ messes and sailors’ institutes. The Navy’s guidelines to its commands and establishments also lays down the colour and style of the attire which can be donned when “the prescribed rig is informal (open collar) or casuals” in the messes. The kurta must be of a “solid tone” and its length should be up to the knees. The cuff sleeves on the kurta can be adorned with buttons or cuff-links. The “matching or contrast tone” of the narrow pyjama has to be “in line with trousers, with elastic waistband and side pockets”, TOI reported citing the Navy order. The straight-cut waistcoat or jacket will be sleeveless and embellished with a “matching pocket square”. Women officers can wear “kurta-churidaar” or “kurta-palazzo”. [caption id=“attachment_13726172” align=“alignnone” width=“640”] The Indian Navy is taking measures to shed its colonial practices. Reuters (Representational Image)[/caption] “This new dress code is not applicable for warships or submarines,” an officer told TOI. So far, kurta-pyjamas for male personnel and even guests was banned in the Indian Army, Indian Air Force (IAF) and Navy messes. The Indian traditional wear was only permitted on festive occasions such as Lohri and Diwali in the wardrooms, Officers’ Institutes (OI), messes etc, a source said, according to Free Press Journal (FPJ). Why is this being done? There were reports last September that the top naval brass had discussed allowing kurta-pyjamas as “national civil dress” for officers and sailors at the naval commanders’ conference. “Officers will now be permitted as an additional rig if a member or his visiting guests/parents/family is comfortable wearing it. They will not be forced to change into a Western wear such as lounge suits or open collars if they are not comfortable,” a source in the Navy told FPJ last September. “Like any of our other rigs, even the specs of the traditional dress for summers or winter bandh gala will be clearly laid out. The attire is not replacing any uniform or existing rigs of any Officers Mess or OI. This is an attempt to be more inclusive, more Bharatiya and as a mark of respect for our culture,” the source explained. How Navy is shedding colonial practices The Indian Navy has taken a lead over the other two armed forces – the Army and the IAF – to get rid of the colonial-era customs and traditions. In December 2023, the Navy introduced its new design of the Admirals’ epaulettes , an ornamental shoulder piece depicting the rank of an officer, which had features from the Rajmudra of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. The force said at the time that the new design “reaffirms our commitment to the two pillars of ‘Panch Pran‘ – ‘Virasat Par Garv‘ & ‘Ghulami ki Mansikta se Mukti‘”.

In recent years, the Indian military has taken several measures to do away with colonial customs. In 2021, Prime Minister Narendra Modi had told the top commanders of the three services at the Combined Commanders Conference in Gujarat’s Kevadia to “rid themselves of legacy systems and practices that have outlived utility and relevance”. Since then, the Indian military has been trying to shorn its colonial antecedents. The Navy has decided to “Indianise” the names of the ranks for sailors. It is planning to redesignate several ranks of the personnel below officer rank (PBOR) cadre, including three titles that are not gender neutral. Earlier, the Indian Navy got a new ensign that replaced the old one which had Saint George’s Cross with the Tricolour in the canton. The force said the new Naval ensign was “resonant with the ongoing national endeavour to move away from the colonial past.” The practice of carrying ceremonial batons has been stopped by the Navy for all its personnel. However, these modifications have not always gone well with the veterans who argue that “colonial” legacies have had no adverse effect on military efficiency, The Wire reported. With inputs from agencies