 "The doner kebab is Germany’s most popular street food dish, with around 18,000 shops in the country that together sell millions of kebabs a day. File image/Reuters")
The soaring cost of doner kebabs in Germany has sparked growing concerns among politicians and the public alike. This beloved dish, introduced to the country by Turkish immigrants and cherished by many as a staple, is facing a significant price surge, leading to calls for government intervention to address what has been termed as ‘Dönerflation’.
This phenomenon has become a pressing issue, drawing attention from various political parties and prompting discussions on potential solutions.
The price of a doner kebab, a popular fast food choice in Germany, has nearly doubled since the onset of the Covid-19 pandemic, reaching around €7 in some cities. Factors contributing to this surge include escalating costs of meat, energy, and rents, which have burdened restaurant owners and consumers alike.
German Chancellor Olaf Scholz has acknowledged the widespread concern over doner prices, with reports indicating that he is frequently questioned about the matter during public appearances.
Despite calls for government intervention, including proposals for a Dönerpreisbremse or doner kebab price cap by the far-left Die Linke party, Scholz has dismissed the feasibility of price controls in a free market economy, instead praising the efforts of the European Central Bank in managing inflation.
In response to the escalating prices, left-wing parties in Germany have proposed subsidising doner kebabs to alleviate the burden on consumers. The German Left Party has advocated for a substantial state-funded subsidy program, aiming to cap the price of a doner kebab at under €5 through the distribution of subsidised vouchers.
This proposal, estimated to cost nearly €4 billion annually, underscores the significance of the issue within the context of Germany’s cost of living crisis.
The doner kebab has transcended its culinary significance to become a symbol of Germany’s socio-economic challenges. References to doner prices have become commonplace in political discourse, with politicians fielding questions and demands from constituents regarding potential measures to address ‘Dönerflation’.
The Green Party youth, echoing sentiments from the Left, have emphasised the need to address inequalities in access to affordable meals, framing the issue within a broader narrative of social justice.
Originating in Germany’s Turkish community after World War II, the doner kebab holds a special place in the country’s culinary landscape. Its evolution from a niche immigrant food to a ubiquitous street food staple reflects the multicultural fabric of modern Germany.
Despite its humble origins, the doner kebab has garnered political attention, with recent incidents such as German President Frank-Walter Steinmeier’s visit to Turkey where he took 60 kgs of kebab meat from Berlin to Ankara in an attempt to underline its strong cultural bond between the two nations.
With inputs from agencies