The politics of burkinis: Mandatory for women in Syria, banned in several European countries

Swimwear might not seem like the most obvious battleground for global politics, but the burkini, a full-body swimsuit worn by many Muslim women around the world, has become exactly that.

While France and couple of European nations have doubled down on banning it in public pools, Syria is moving in the opposite direction, now requiring women to cover up with burkinis.

The garment is now at the centre of a cultural tug-of-war, with nations picking sides over what women in their country should—or shouldn’t—wear.

So, why is Syria pushing burkinis? Why is France so against them? And how did a simple full-body swimsuit spark a countrywide debate? Here’s a closer look.

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Syria’s push for burkinis

Syria’s new Islamist-led government has introduced a fresh set of modesty rules, now requiring women to wear burkinis or similarly “decent” swimwear that covers most of the body at public beaches.

The dress code doesn’t stop there. Outside of swimming areas, women are expected to wear loose-fitting clothes, while men have been banned from going shirtless in public spaces.

But the rules come with a catch: they don’t apply everywhere. Private resorts and luxury beach clubs are exempt, and according to Syria’s tourism ministry, “Western swimsuits are allowed” at such venues—so long as they stay within the boundaries of “general morals,” it says.

In general public settings, Syrians are being asked to “wear loose clothing, cover the shoulders and knees, and avoid transparent and tight clothing,” the ministry said. However, there was no clear explanation of how these rules would be enforced.

This move marks a major cultural shift for the country, coming just six months after Islamist forces ousted long-time leader Bashar al-Assad. The government says the updated beachwear rules are meant to reflect “the public’s interest.”

The move has sparked mixed reactions across the country, reigniting debates about personal freedoms under the new authorities who took power in December.

Why France has banned burkinis

The burkini debate in France first made global headlines in 2016, when several coastal towns banned the full-body swimsuit. Officials claimed it went against the country’s secular values and could be a security threat.

Images of police officers forcing a woman to remove her burkini on a beach sparked global outrage, but the bans continued.

Since then, the issue has remained hotly contested. In 2022, the city council of Grenoble attempted to lift the ban on burkinis in public swimming pools after pressure from local activists.

But the move was quickly struck down by France’s highest administrative court, which said the decision violated the country’s commitment to “neutrality of public service.”

Then-Interior Minister Gérald Darmanin hailed the court’s ruling as a “victory for secularism.” But many Muslim women felt the law wasn’t protecting freedom; it was restricting it.

Fatima Bent from the Muslim feminist group Lallab called the ruling “a clear step backwards.” She warned it would only deepen the exclusion of women who cover their heads and bodies in public spaces.

Yes, some women are pressured by family or cultural expectations to dress a certain way, she said. But that’s not the whole picture. “Muslim women are not homogenous,” Bent told AP, pointing out how French authorities often view them “through a single prism.”

But at the heart of this decision is France’s deep-rooted model of secularism, or laïcité, which insists on keeping religion firmly out of public institutions.

This approach got even more teeth with the introduction of the “separatism law,” passed under President Emmanuel Macron, aimed at protecting “republican values” from what his government calls the threat of religious extremism.

Who else has banned burkinis?

While France is the most vocal and consistent opponent of the burkini, it’s not alone. Over the years, a handful of other countries and regions have also taken issue with the swimwear.

Austria

Many years ago, a decree was issued in Austria banning Muslim women from wearing the burkini in swimming pools for being “unsafe clothing”.

Austria has not only been tough on the burkini, but has also called on politicians to ban the wearing of the niqab and headscarf in public.

Italy

Italy has enforced one of the strictest penalties for burkini wearers. Since 2009, women wearing burkinis at beaches or swimming pools can face a fine of up to 500 euros.

Belgium

The mayor of Antwerp referred to burkinis as wearable “tents” after a decision was issued to ban them several years ago, stirring protests by Muslim women.

Germany

Germany has had a complicated relationship with the burkini. While some regions banned it from beaches and pools citing hygiene or safety reasons, others have seen those bans overturned in court.

In one landmark case, a Muslim woman in Koblenz successfully challenged a local burkini ban in swimming pools—and won.

Despite this, several cities in Germany still impose unofficial restrictions or social pressure against wearing burkinis or veils in public spaces.

Where did the burkini come from?

The burkini was created in 2004 by Lebanese-Australian designer Aheda Zanetti, who wanted to give Muslim women the option of modest swimwear that was also practical and safe for the water.

Zanetti got the idea after watching her niece struggle to join a netball team because of her clothing.

“My niece wanted to play netball but it was a bit of a struggle to get her in the team — she was wearing a hijab,” Zanetti wrote in The Guardian editorial.

“My sister had to fight for her daughter to play, had to debate the issue and ask, why is this girl prevented from playing netball because of her modesty?"

“When she was finally allowed to play we all went to watch her to support her and what she was wearing was totally inappropriate for a sports uniform — a skivvy, tracksuit pants, and her hijab, totally unsuitable for any type of sport. She looked like a tomato she was so red and hot!"

“So I went home and went looking for something that might be better for her to wear, sportswear for Muslim girls, and I couldn’t find anything."

So, she decided to make it herself.

The name “burkini”—a blend of “burqa” and “bikini”—may sound like a contradiction, but the design was all about balance: giving women the freedom to enjoy the water without sacrificing their comfort or beliefs.

Over time, the burkini found popularity beyond just Muslim women. It gained traction among cancer survivors, women seeking sun protection, and those who simply preferred more coverage without judgment.

In 2023, the burkini made headlines once again when Erica Robin, Pakistan’s first-ever Miss Universe delegate, competed in the swimsuit round wearing a baby pink burkini with a metallic neckline. Her appearance in the international pageant was hailed as a breakthrough moment.

With input from agencies