Fish: Bengal’s favourite vegetable

Statutory warning: We don’t expect you to be a vegetarian, but in case you are, then we are assuming you are reading this purely for culinary pursuit. Please excuse the obvious bias towards the love for fish.

Indians generally have a love-hate relationship with fish. Wait, before you Bongs, Mallus, Goans and Tamils cry slander, give us a moment to explain.

Fish evokes extreme reactions in non-vegetarians. While people up North would gorge on anything chicken, and even mutton, the thought of having fish scares most of them. Some hate the intense smell (fish lovers would call it ‘aroma’) during cooking traditional fish items. Some dislike the taste, calling it bland. Some don’t like Machher kanta (fish bones). Most of all, the nuanced art of cooking fish never really took off in the northern states.

Is it because of the distance from the sea? Well, not quite. How else would you explain the fact that in several parts of UP and Bihar, fish is big, even though they are not coastal areas?

On the other extreme, we have people who swear by fish. The subcontinent’s coastal areas have a rich tradition of fish delicacies. Most Bengalis would kill for Macher Jhol (Bengali Fish Curry) or any Ilish recipe (Hilsa). Hell, it’s a pretty popular notion that Bengalis consider fish a vegetarian item. That’s clearly an exaggeration, but you get the idea.

Meen Kuzhambu is a hot favourite in Chettinad cuisine.  Meen Molee (fish stew) is very popular in Kerala and Goan cuisine can’t be considered complete without fish in some form.

With markets opening up, there is even more choice of fish now and fish not erstwhile consumed in India are being brought in plenty. An example of this is Basa fish from Vietnam.  Within four years of its arrival in India, the import is likely to touch a staggering 2,000 metric tonnes this year.

But, most of these delicacies are limited to the walls of fine-dining restaurants. Work pressure and shortage of time in life doesn’t give us many options but to resort to some high end eateries to savour typical fish preparations. You can easily get the exotic and spicy items, but the recipes that you can prepare at home, without a lot of fuss are harder to find.

Since I shifted to Bangalore, I haven’t had the chance to have what we call the maach bhaat in Bengali, the simple way of cooking fish with nigella and green chilies served with warm white rice.

So, let’s talk about how to prepare simple fish recipes that will leave you salivating for more. Today, we present for you: Patla Macher Jhol (Bengali style fish in plain gravy).

You’d need: ● 200gms fresh water fish (preferably rohu/catla) ● 1 teaspoon nigella (kali jeera) ● 2 tablespoons mustard oil ● 1 teaspoon turmeric powder ● 1 teaspoon cumin powder ● 2-3 green chili ● Sprigs of coriander leaves salt to taste

How to prepare: ● Wash and pat dry the fish, mix it with salt and ½ teaspoon turmeric powder ● Heat oil and fry the fish till half done ● Keep aside the extra oil, and pour in 1 teaspoon mustard oil, add the nigella (kali jeera) to it ● As it starts sputtering put in turmeric and cumin powder and about a cup of water. Season with salt ● Let the gravy boil to your desired consistency ● Put in the half fried fishes and cook till the fish gets tender ● Take off the flame and garnish with chopped coriander leaves

More fish recipes to come in next installments. Stay tuned.

By the way, what is the best fish dish you have ever had?