Food Friday | A culinary adventure in Goa

Food Friday talks about some hidden gems in the country, some forgotten cuisines and some simple food with a twist. So, if you are a foodie and you relish what’s on your plate. This is the space to look out for. Ask Goans their favourite local dishes and you may expect a response highlighting the usual suspects - Prawn Curries, Vindaloos and Xacutis. Though these items are certainly well-loved, they are not the sole torchbearers of authentic Goan cuisine. Lesser-known offerings like Tisreos (coconut-based preparation of dry clams), Crispy Baitfish (tiny morsels of seafood that are fried and covered in lemon sauce) and Goan Pooes (round pita-like pockets made of whole wheat bread), are also in the fray for their unique flavours. After all, in Goa, locals and tourists alike have access to a culinary exclusivity they would be hard pressed to find elsewhere. The beautiful coastal state of Goa boasts a colourful history with numerous cultural influences. Originally ruled by a Hindu dynasty, after the 14th century this area changed hands multiple times between Hindu and Muslim rulers. The Portuguese invaded Goa in 1510 and stayed there for about 450 years, heavily influencing every aspect of life, including the local culture, cuisine, and architecture. Goa became a part of India only in 1961. Each of these time periods and political seats had varying effects on Goan cuisine. Hence, even in a country that boasts an astounding range of regional and local delicacies, Goan food stands out. A single bite of a tangy curry swimming in its mixture of local spices and coconut milk, or a mouthful of soft buttered pao dunked in the flavourful gravy of a Ros Omelette, act as worthy testament. Pia Desai, COO Comma Consulting, a boutique communications agency, is Goan on her mother’s side and dons her culinary legacy with pride. She says, “My maternal grandmother was one of the most fantastic cooks ever. Even the simplest things she made were delicious. Every meal was thoughtfully curated whenever we visited her. She made this pan-fried fish served with a chutney of Goa chillies and coconut, which was one of my favourite meals. Prawn curry is also a standing favourite. However, one of her best dishes is the Goa Chicken curry, which is specific to our Pereira household.” [caption id=“attachment_953731” align=“alignnone” width=“300”]  AFP[/caption] Interestingly, Goan cuisine cannot be classified as one cohesive unit. Hindu families prefer to eat thalis bedecked with rice, fish curry, fish fry, pickle, and a vegetable curry and wash it down with the refreshing kokum-based sol kadhi. Those descended from the Portuguese favour the more exotic Xacutis (spicy curry that uses ground coconut as the base) and Cafreals (tangy fried chicken in a dry green gravy). Restaurants like Vinayak and Anand in Assagao are popular for their variations of the former and Andron in Bardez and Kamlabai in Mapusa have made their name serving the latter. Perhaps the only common culinary thread for all Goans is dessert, which includes the popular Bebinca, a sweet dish derived from an Indo-Portuguese tradition. It consists of a number of layers and is especially difficult to make for that reason. Guava Cheese or Perad, as it is more authentically known, is a soft chewy jelly made of guava pulp. This interesting sweet treat has many takers too.

As Goa navigates another shift in cultural landscape with people from other cities making it their chosen home, has the cuisine available locally changed? Desai says, “I feel like it has been ‘Punjabified’ a bit with the influx of outsiders in Goa. It’s hard to find a good prawn curry in a local shack nowadays - more often than not the gravy is more reminiscent of butter chicken.” On my most recent visit to Goa last month, I had occasion to dwell on Goan food, as well as this wry observation of Desai’s. Many of Goa’s attractions shut shop during the ‘off-season’ months of May to September, so we had slim pickings. On our first day there, my brother and I left our accommodation in Baga to explore local places to eat, armed with suggestions from the manager of the goSTOPS hostel we were staying at, and fellow hostel residents. After a picturesque drive where views of the gorgeous rain-soaked greenery somewhat compensated for our hungry state, we reached Anand, a hot-spot for local food. We debated eating here but weren’t keen on navigating its noisy crowds. A little further down the road, the inviting façade of a corner home at a busy intersection of Anjuna, caught our eye. Its intriguing name, ‘Maka Zai’, and interiors consisting of cosy Portuguese mid-century furniture added to its charm. This became our chosen destination for lunch, and we were not disappointed.

From prawn curry that used Kashmiri spices instead of the local fiery ones and condensed milk as opposed to coconut milk, to a cocktail that dexterously mixed gin with Feni; here was Goan food tweaked to suit a global palate. Vineeth Shetty, its affable co-owner, explained the restaurant’s vision of marrying local flavours with South-East Asian influences to temper the pungent spices and flavours of traditional Goan dishes. The decision seems to have served them well, evident from the swift business they have done since opening 18 months ago – mid-pandemic. At night, deprived of options, we explored the Ozran party stretch in Vagator beach. Though the drinks flowed freely in places like Raeeth and Titlie, the food on offer did not excite us. Our hunger pangs were only satiated with our 3 a.m. Bun Omelette serving, which we devoured in a makeshift shack just outside the swanky clubs. The Kowekar Tea Stall of Alka aunty was one of many such shanties run by enterprising local women, whose main sustenance was making omelettes and Maggi noodles for drunken youngsters through the night. On our last morning there, we tread the touristy route and made our way to nearby Brittos on Baga beach for breakfast. This iconic shack has been going strong since it first opened in 1961, on the strength of its authentic Goan delicacies and lively atmosphere. Since it was our first meal of the day, I dared to try the intimidating Ros Omelette, a popular street food consisting of an omelette generously slathered in a spicy gravy of either chicken or chickpeas and served with pav. Barely able to roll home after this king’s breakfast, we packed up and left for home – our stomachs full of Goan food and our hearts of memories. My recent visit may not accurately represent the sheer range of Goan fare, but it proved one thing beyond doubt – Goans across the board know and love good food. And that is something I’m completely on board with. Noor Anand Chawla pens lifestyle articles for various publications and her blog www.nooranandchawla.com.