With the Lakme Fashion Week's Summer Resort 2016 season kicking off in Mumbai on March 30, we thought it would be a good time to pick the best that was on offer from days one to three of the event, for you. This is summer style you'll be glad for when the mercury continues its ever-rising act over the coming months. Using cool fabrics and cooler silhouettes, check out these season-appropriate looks from both emerging and established designers.
Quirkbox is known for its kitschy, quirky motifs, but for their Summer Resort 2016 line, designers Rixi Bhatia and Jayesh Sachdev opted for a more toned down aesthetic from their previous collections. French art served as the inspiration, with highly detailed and classic hand illustrations of vintage objects like sewing machines adorning the clothes. The colour palette began from off-white, ecru, indigo, ventured into crimson and black, with delicate cross stitch. The emphasis was on using fabrics that breathe, including cottons, linens, and cotton silks with silhouettes designed to be breezy, fluid, and relaxed.
Anand Kabra offered a collection of party and bridal wear that blended the traditional with the contemporary at LFW. Beige, maroon, midnight blue and gold hues formed the backdrop for the traditional Indian embroidery — gota, aina, resham, zar and pitta — that Kabra is known to have a fondness for. Lehengas, shararas, floor-length anarkalis, jackets and saris by Kabra had a distinctly modern touch, as seen in a beautiful midnight blue jumpsuit, which was teamed with a gold embroidered jacket.
The art of marble inlays was the surprising inspiration for Sahil Kochhar’s collection. The theme shone through in the use of geometric ‘jali’ patterns displayed through layered fabrics and ivory 3D hand-cut embroidery. The silhouettes had an androgynous edge while the choice of organza as the fabric, imparted a lightness to the clothes.
Kriti Tula highlighted ethical fashion through her label Doodlage, creating chic outfits with industrial waste.
Free and easy, delicate and breezy — these seemed to be the catch-words of Paromita Banerjee’s ‘Salt of Life’ collection at LFW. Hand woven fabrics like khadi, malkha, linen and cotton were used to create voluminous Mughal jamas, pyjamas, shift dresses and more. Hand block stripes, checks and dots appeared on sheer mulmul, with the garments colour blocked in jute brown, mitti and natural tan. Saris were teamed with wide blouses, smocks and peasant tops. Incidentally, Paromita used waste fabric for footwear, bags, stoles, buttons and tassels to complete the look.
Giving the age-old ajrakh technique a contemporary twist, Asif Shaikh worked with master craftsman Jabbar Khatri to create gorgeous saris, long skirts, kurtas, anarkalis, palazzos, lehengas, blouses and dupattas, in stunning colours and prints. Menswear featured kurtas and shawls worn with wide salwars or churidars.
Bringing Banaras brocades to the forefront, Hemang Agarwal worked with master weaver Sharfuddin Ansari for a line of saris teamed with jackets. Yellow, blue, grey, black, red, green, bronze and copper were the primary hues, along with stripes and floral weaves, for the garments.
For her label Pero, Aneeth Arora teamed up with Jakir Hussain Mondol to create a line of pretty summer dresses, blouses, layered minis, midis, skirts and gowns in shades of white, pale blue and grey.
Swati Kalsi’s ‘Monad’ line was an ode to the beauty of traditional Sujani embroidery and hand woven fabrics. The collection used colours like black, ivory, camel and grey, and fabrics like tussar and Gicha silk, cotton and cotton silk, and silk organza. Dresses, cropped pants, skirts and coats, smocks, wrap pants and a sari-drape dress were all seen on the ramp.
Ghagras that were re-imagined as capes, pajamas transformed into off-shoulder blouses, dhotis morphed into saris — these were just some of the designs displayed by Wendell Rodricks at LFW. Bright hand-woven silks were used in Rodrick’s re-interpretation of 20 iconic Indian garments.
Sneha Arora’s ‘Find Your Wild’ collection was aimed at women who enjoy bold, dramatic but easy silhouettes. Separates like long shirts, backless dresses, tie-up blouses and airy summer jackets were presented in shades of white, nude, aqua, peach and teal, with detailing added in the form of pleats.
Woven heirloom saris were the mainstay of the line by Swati & Sunaina, who worked with the master weavers of Banaras to create their summer/resort collection.
Couturier to the stars Manish Malhotra opened LFW with a haute couture line called ‘Elements’. Comprising over 70 ensembles for a summer wedding, the collection was inspired by earth, water, wind and flame. Tailored ponchos, cocktail dresses, off-shoulder jumpsuits in organza, tussar and crepe, and in shades like baby pink, powder blue, mint green and orange were all crafted specifically for the modern Indian bride.
There was also something for the men — a capsule collection comprising jackets and kurtas, tailored pants and churidars in shades of blue and ivory.